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What does BPU(TM) stand for? (BPU(TM) is normally a trademark of SupraStore.com)

These modifications are: A full length three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3" (75mm) or bigger cat-back exhaust system, raised increase (18psi), plus the needed enhance cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) necessary to achieve that increase devoid of activating the factory fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven to provide the finest HP-to-$$$ ratio.

What does the + mean when somebody says BPU(TM)+? And what's APU?

Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second "+" refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU(TM) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, will be called BPU(TM)+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU(TM)++, and so on. Then it genuinely is referred to as APU, advanced performance upgrades.

What are the initial engine modifications I must perform?

I suggest starting with raising the enhance of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This may need a top quality boost gauge and also a enhance cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will give an addition of roughly 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it could be a logical subsequent step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the identical time.

I will cover just a couple of of them here. The ones I will cover fall into three categories, enhance control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.

Three of the increase control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels with out the use of a increase controller. But you need to maintain a close eye on your enhance gauge, and be sure they are not permitting the turbos to increase too high (18psi is definitely a secure level).

The subsequent mods, are the true twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run consistently in parallel (both on at the same time). However, this does noticeably lower low-end power, and increases exhaust noise levels, and thus may possibly not be desirable on the street.

The final mod I will discuss could be the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the amount five and 6 cylinders, which may possibly trigger burnt valves.

It varies from car-to-car, along with the conditions too as tuning. Most BPU(TM)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno between 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is normally achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset ECU (to erase anything poor the ECU may perhaps have learned), and often slightly bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel.

It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall between 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times can drop nicely into the 11s with drag radials, an excellent driver, and beneficial conditions, also as suitable pre-race preparation.

Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the "TRAC" fuse of course.

If the vehicle is maintained properly, along with the automobile is treated with some respect for the components, you should sustain much of the power train's life. Which contemplating the fact that the Supra is by far 1 of the most dependable and durable sports cars, it is going to last longer than most nicely maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain components that will see a drastically shortened life will probably be the stock clutch. It will more than most likely not last very much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU(TM). If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you'll want to strategy on a brand new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will probably be topic to a somewhat shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as just how much boost you will run)

What's the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?

The stock 2JZ-GTE engine must hold up quite properly to this power level. Just how lengthy depends on maintenance, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But commonly Supras can go for years at this power level. A stock automatic will not hold this considerably power, a built transmission will likely be required, and it is reliability will depend on it is design and construction.

The only genuine reliability concerns at these low energy levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Basically a set-up which is either VERY properly concieved, or utilizes OE components as substantially as possible, with out more than burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability.

What are the energy limits of the several factory components (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?

There have truly not been sufficient failures to definitely pin point a limit for the a variety of power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But obviously at these energy levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is literally a bomb waiting to go off, however this could be just as true with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have properly exceeded 800rwhp, and even approached 900rwhp. I still don't have an understanding of how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.

Even driven hard, the Getrag ought to hold up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with some respect, it must be able to deal with about 800RWHP or more, while terrific care and respect will need to have to be practiced at those levels.

Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I do not have substantially info on their failure limits. On street tires, it will be almost impossible to break any of these components at ANY energy level. The tires would spin prior to they would place the driveline under that sort of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, but they have confirmed themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.

Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely affected using the BPU(TM) mods?

Some will make it far louder; some will really make it quieter. But most are just somewhat bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are also combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it's certainly worth it. So low-end power and response is significantly improved over stock.

Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?

If you run without having catalytic converters, you're undertaking so at your own risk, and also you wouldn't pass visual or emissions testing.

If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage ought to not be considerably affected. Mileage will significantly decrease throughout however, for those who drive "vigorously", far more energy equals more burned fuel I'm afraid.

Should I install an "Intake" (Open Element Filter)?

An added bonus of the open element filters, is that they let you to very easily hear the primary turbo and by-pass valve.

What about the stock intercooler?

The stock intercooler does a decent job up till about 17psi on the stock turbos, right after that you would possibly notice a substantial gain, specifically in warmer temperatures, having a great front mount intercooler. However, maintain in mind it'll block some of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.

Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?

It wouldn't hurt. At the most you may perhaps slightly enhance throttle response, but no less than it's going to appear nicer.

What concerning the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump huge sufficient for BPU(TM)?

Yes, the stock fuel method is very secure and reliable to 450RWHP, even though I would propose a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything more than that, and I would highly advise having the auto dyno'd, and making use of a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel ratio at your high increase setting. 11.5:1 will be a secure fuel ratio.

What are the stock injectors rated at?

Supra has develop into really favorite right after the Fast & the Furious movie. Everybody remembers the well-known 10-second orange MKIV generation Supra. This will be the point exactly where Supra owners started to believe much more about converting their slow non-turbo 2JZ-GE engines into a 400-700 horsepower 2JZ-GE-T beasts.

This hurts power. What it does do is give a safety margin that makes engine damage through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it effectively (on a dyno, with an accurate EGT gauge, along with a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors aren't accurate), then you should be in a position to gain a noticeable quantity of power. One of the most favorite electronic fuel controllers could be the A'PEXi S-AFC.

What must I use to increase my enhance level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a Manual BC?

Using an EBC will be the safest solution to raise boost, it will stop spiking and over-boosting. But it really comes down to your budget. If you may afford an EBC, get one. If you can't, go with a MBC. And constantly maintain an eye on that boost gauge. And whatever you're making use of to control boost, bear in mind to not get carried away, I do not suggest going frequently over 18psi.

What will be the ideal Electronic Boost Controller?

There actually is no BEST. Although the A'PEXi AVC-R can be a nice unit, it provides much much more control more than increase than other EBCs, but it is also additional complicated to install, and tune. Most of the significant manufacturers make decent units. Just prevent fuzzy-logic equipped models for those who still have the sequential stock turbos, they will come to be "confused" by the unnatural behavior of the sequential system.

When installing my EBC, do I connect it to both of the Turbo's Wastegates?

So, only connect it to the Primary's.

Some individuals say I want to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, as an alternative to just making use of a boost controller. Do I?

Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. And they've not been confirmed to give a important enhance in performance or safety on BPU(TM) level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be certain you acquire your ECU, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they're doing. And have it tailored to your specific auto (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would also recommend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.

The common consensus is 17-18psi. Some individuals have taken it higher, but I do not advocate it if you don't have the money for a turbo replacement/upgrade.

Which Down-Pipe is recommended?

The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe will be the most commonly used. However many other brands exist.

It will have some effect on energy output, but not a lot. Its precise impact on HP isn't clear, however it probably costs a few hp at the most, perhaps 5-15hp at BPU(TM) energy levels.

What is a Down-Pipe?

The Downpipe is also where the two catalytic converters are located, also as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).

Can I still install a Down-Pipe?

Yes.

Which Exhausts are the loudest?

The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.

Which Exhausts are the quietest?

I am 1 of those owners (yes, a girl with a gorgeous red Supra) having a naturally aspirated Toyota Supra 1995, 222hp in stock with manual gearbox. The automobile is gorgeous, sexy lines, original interior - wonderful feeling to drive the car. The only issue that was wrong was the lack of power. So I decided to tune it. I was completely new to turbo chargers, standalone engine management, intercoolers and BOV-s. I had no concept just how much it could cost and that it was not the best choice to tune a car with 184k miles on the odometer.

The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion as well as the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock.

What are some suggested exhaust systems?

It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down some of my recommendations based on certain combinations of preferences.

Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:

Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)

-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)

Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:

Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:

-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)

-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)

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